Enayatullah Safi,an Afghan refugee, has transformed the culinary landscape in Denmark through his restaurant,Dhaba Kitchen, located in Copenhagen. By introducing a diverse array of Indian dishes, he aims to broaden the Danish palate beyond the familiar butter chicken and naan.
Growing up in Kabul, Safi found solace in Bollywood films during turbulent times . His family fled Afghanistan in 2001 after the Taliban takeover,seeking stability and a better future in Denmark. Arriving in Copenhagen at age 13, he quickly adapted to his new life, working various jobs to support his family. His culinary journey began washing dishes in a Chinese restaurant,where he became captivated by the art of cooking.
Despite pursuing degree in political science at the University of Copenhagen,Safi's passion for food never waned . A trip to India in 2014 deepened his understanding of Indian cuisine. He traveled through cities like Delhi, Jaipur, and Mumbai,immersing himself in local food culture. The vibrant street food scenes reminded him of Kabul,and he was particularly struck by the complexity of Indian vegetarian dishes.
Upon returning to Denmark,Safi opened his first Indian restaurant with his brother in 2015. He quickly realized that Danish diners had a limited view of Indian food,primarily associating it with just a couple of dishes. To change this perception,he introduced variety of regional dishes,including halim,nihari,and biryani. However, initial orders remained focused on the staples.
To encourage customers to explore unfamiliar flavors,Safi launched the thali—a platter featuring smaller portions of multiple dishes . This innovation proved successful,allowing diners to sample a range of flavors and textures. As a result, interest in Indian cuisine surged, with customers returning to discuss the new dishes they had discovered.
Over the past decade, Safi has built one of Scandinavia's most recognized Indian restaurant groups,expanding Dhaba Kitchen across Denmark and Sweden. His menus rotate seasonally, showcasing regional specialties such as lal maas from Rajasthan and Goan prawn curry. Safi travels to India several times a year, continually seeking inspiration from diverse culinary traditions he encounters.
Today, Indian cuisine has gained significant popularity in Denmark,extending beyond restaurant dining. Supermarkets now offer frozen naan and ready-made curries, reflecting the growing demand for Indian food at home. Safi emphasizes that Indian cuisine encompasses multitude of flavors and stories, far beyond the simplified versions often found in restaurants.
In addition to running his restaurants,Safi has authored two cookbooks and frequently appears on Danish television, sharing recipes and cooking techniques. His mission is clear: to educate Danes about the rich tapestry of Indian cuisine,particularly the everyday dishes found in dhabas and roadside eateries.
“I wanted people to understand that Indian food is not one thing. It is hundreds of cuisines, stories, and traditions,” Safi remarked, underscoring his commitment to showcasing the depth of his culinary heritage.
